What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

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Crayefish
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What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by Crayefish » Wed Nov 23, 2022 3:29 am

As the title says, what would be the most appropriate turning technique when descending shallow(ish) slopes with a pulk in tow and kicker skins on? Would one really go for a full knee drop tele turn, or would something much less graceful (but ultimately easier) suffice?

Doesn't need to be pretty... just needs to work to both cut speed on wide slopes, and navigate through the trees on narrow ones. This would be using Gammes, NNN-BCs and X-skins. Pulk connected with bars, not rope.

Being new to the whole BC sking thing, last time I just descended doing a bit of a lean back... terrible I know, but it sort of worked 😅 (was with AT setup, but heel unlocked, so similar principle).

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Theme
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Re: What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by Theme » Wed Nov 23, 2022 6:38 am

I am assuming you have H-bars instead of X-bars? Pretty tough to turn with the H-bars. Grab one side, poles to the other hand, lean back, snowplow if you can, godspeed

With X-bars you can do tele, but only in relatively deep snow or low speed, otherwise the pulk will roll over or you may get knocked over

If anyone if wondering about rope, you grab the front loop and pull the pulk against your shin, then snowplow your way down while supporting the pulk against the shin

If you are skiing on a snowmobile track, you can slow down by skiing one ski on the track, one outside it. The more you weight the one outside, the less speed. Ultimately one can just steer out if speed gets too high. This is, if the snow is deep and soft still

The safest option is to do switchbacks on a wide slope. If it is steep enough that you think speed gets too high, just head down in a slight angle, and steer up against the slope if you need to stop. Take the turn 180 degrees, and do the very same thing over again



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Jurassien
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Re: What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by Jurassien » Wed Nov 23, 2022 7:39 am

Theme wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 6:38 am

If anyone if wondering about rope, you grab the front loop and pull the pulk against your shin, then snowplow your way down while supporting the pulk against the shin
OUCH!!!.......I think you mean “calf” – “shin” is the front part of the leg, below the knee.

Shin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin

Calf: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calf_(leg)



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Theme
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Re: What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by Theme » Wed Nov 23, 2022 9:19 am

Jurassien wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 7:39 am
Theme wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 6:38 am

If anyone if wondering about rope, you grab the front loop and pull the pulk against your shin, then snowplow your way down while supporting the pulk against the shin
OUCH!!!.......I think you mean “calf” – “shin” is the front part of the leg, below the knee.

Shin: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin

Calf: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calf_(leg)

Ah yes, but the thing is you have your boot inbetween so it is fine either way. With a paris pulk for example you have shaped sides that infact do touch your shin and the side of the calf. Regardless, turning back up the slope you do have to push the pulk with your shin. But the boot is there to give some cushioning. Trust me, I get painful shin splints from running, but steering a pulk is fine



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Crayefish
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Re: What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by Crayefish » Wed Nov 23, 2022 3:24 pm

Theme wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 6:38 am
I am assuming you have H-bars instead of X-bars? Pretty tough to turn with the H-bars. Grab one side, poles to the other hand, lean back, snowplow if you can, godspeed

With X-bars you can do tele, but only in relatively deep snow or low speed, otherwise the pulk will roll over or you may get knocked over

If anyone if wondering about rope, you grab the front loop and pull the pulk against your shin, then snowplow your way down while supporting the pulk against the shin

If you are skiing on a snowmobile track, you can slow down by skiing one ski on the track, one outside it. The more you weight the one outside, the less speed. Ultimately one can just steer out if speed gets too high. This is, if the snow is deep and soft still

The safest option is to do switchbacks on a wide slope. If it is steep enough that you think speed gets too high, just head down in a slight angle, and steer up against the slope if you need to stop. Take the turn 180 degrees, and do the very same thing over again
Thanks Theme; good feedback. Yes, you're right, I do have H bars.

Sounds like I wasn't too far off the mark then with my shoddy technique. Snowplough, lean back and hope no one is watching! :)

Looking forward to testing this with the Gammes.



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randoskier
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Re: What is the correct turning technique when descending with a pulk/skins?

Post by randoskier » Fri Feb 02, 2024 11:25 am

Theme wrote:
Wed Nov 23, 2022 6:38 am
I am assuming you have H-bars instead of X-bars? Pretty tough to turn with the H-bars. Grab one side, poles to the other hand, lean back, snowplow if you can, godspeed

With X-bars you can do tele, but only in relatively deep snow or low speed, otherwise the pulk will roll over or you may get knocked over
Theme you should try the Jet Sled Jr. it is a MUCH more skiable pulk than the Paris and only very rarely tips over. It also fits in your car trunk and the airlines like it.

It is made of much stronger material than the Paris and only weighs 400 grams more. The distance from the outside of the molded- in runners on the bottom are 31 cm apart on the Paris and 38mm on the Jet sled.

I use it with a 120 liter Rab Duffle bag with shoulder straps, I can strap a 20 liter square OR stuff-sack in front with the interior straps and fit a 4-season mountain tent in the back for 180 liters total. It all sits on a tripple layer of 7mm sleepin mats- which protects the bags from the screw ends of the two runners on the bottom and are used for extra sleeping insulation- a thicker sleeping pad folded in half sits on top under the fitted cove (se pic)r- this makes the pulk a great seat for eating lunch. It has a skeg (rudder) on the back that can be flipped over for added lateral stability and tracking in steeper descents. Reverse it and it out of the way.

Built the traces with fiberglass fence posts and rod-end ball-joints all the way around. The attachment pins are narrower than their reception holes and the difference is made up by inserting them in a section of polyethylene tubing (bushings) which stops metal clatter and helps absorb metal-on-metal shock. The tubing is durable and normally lasts a season.

They don't sell them in Europe but if you want one I can get them for about $50 delivered here (including shipping) but you would have to come get it here- (right by the Dolomites). The fitted cordura cover costs another $20. Let me know if you want me to order you one sometime. The straps and fittings were easy enough to make.

We have stopped using the Paris pulks completely, they have no advantage except for the fact that they are blue and orange, that being the colors of the New York Mets (the world's greatest baseball team).
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