Looking for Wax Selection Advice

[dave52]

I would suggest Swix Green, Swix blue extra, Swix Violet Special to start. You can use Swix Green or Polar as a base-binder. If you're not racing you don't need all this extra stuff IMO.

I like Rex waxes and have pretty much switched to them instead of Swix. Rex makes an excellent all-purpose "Pine Tar Universal" wax that makes things even more simple.

When you use 'Rex Pine Tar Universal', are you applying Polar or Green wax as a base layer first, and how satisfied are you with this?

I'm weighing this kit:
Polar, Green, Blue and maybe Violet

to a pure minimalist kit:
Universal, and hard wax base (if needed)

I'm new to BCXC and waxing, so trying to keep it simple but enjoyable

Another rookie question, do you scrape off ALL the wax in between ski sessions? or perhaps just keep layering over with today's flavor of the day?

[bgregoire]

Dave, wax kits are based on local snow conditions. no other way to it. So some trial and error is required. Better start off with a bigger kit and eliminate those you dont use with time.

The Tar universal is a great wax and i have been a uder and promoter here for some years now. Still, its never my only choice. Its one of many in my kit.

I don't use polar much for grip (as i dont go skiing much at -25). My kit usually includes the Tar universal, Blue, blue/extra, violet special, red. If I was going on a multiday trek in the middle of winter, the polar would come along though

The tar waxes are great for new snow, not so much for transformed.

I don't bother with base layers no more.

[dave52]

@bgregoire

Since you're not using base layers, do you use glidewax, or simply kick wax and wax pocket? Thanks for the reply too!

I'm sort of modelling my approach based on Lilcliffy's BC waxing recommendations, with layering harder waxes as a starting point into this.

[bgregoire]

I don't use Lilcliffy's grip wax for glide technique much mostly because I'm lazy, it regularly get quite cold here and I prefer glide over grip kind of thing. I should experiment with it more when I find more time to ski.

So if you are using his approach, then yes, polar in the kit is a MUST I guess.

I only apply glide wax once a year now when i store my skis for the summer.

You don't actually need glide wax to glide. Skis to the job by themselves, naked.

[Woodserson]

I just had an interesting wax day.

I was on my Nansens. It was -7c/20f deg at my house, but I'm kinda in a hole, and when we got on the highway and then location to ski it was already 2c/35f. But the snow was cold. I went with TOKO Red which is -10/-2c / 14-28f. Nothing. Next up is Toko Yellow, which is -2/0 28-32f. But I only have limited success with Toko Yellow, so I passed it over and went to Swix Violet Special on top of the Toko Red. It worked really well! After setting it in for a few yards we were off to the races. But then I got into some snow that was super sticky and it was clumping to the Violet Special, which I found super odd because I was definitely in the range for Violet. If I kept moving it was fine, but after a while it got worse, so I stopped, and mixed on some Toko Red back on top of the Violet. I figured since it wasn't working at all at he parking lot, maybe it would reduce the clumping.

Corked it in hard to mix the two waxes. Perfect grip and glide at 2c/35f and no clumping.

Moral: DON"T GIVE UP. THINK. GET GROOVY and MIX AND MATCH.

[fisheater]

I’ve had success as well putting colder wax ove warmer wax. Dave Mann said that the colder wax gave the glide, and the snow crystals could still grip the softer wax below.

[Woodserson]

I’ve had success as well putting colder wax ove warmer wax. Dave Mann said that the colder wax gave the glide, and the snow crystals could still grip the softer wax below.

In John Caldwell's 1971 book, The New Cross Country Ski Book, he has an excellent chapter on waxing, and he says the same thing when using klister as a binder for hard wax. (Pg70)

Also: "The good waxer is never bound by traditional methods."