Went out and tarrif proofed my life today. Still need a pair of AXLs though20250307_183539.jpg you bought way too much! if we follow the established pattern of playing chicken/fake-outs/bluff calling, these Tariffs will be gone in a month (or less)... and if they are not gone in a Month? Well, then...

if it's fresh-track (not re-frozen/solid ice) - then, Gamme all day long!

If it is iced-over, I have no advice to offer.

thanks. that clarifies....

for a "crust-buster" common advice usually points to the Combat NATO.
and maybe an even better cruster, is the NATO's older "relative",
the USGI... (but shipping is a barrier to obtaining it from the Surplus store in Harrisburg, PA)

To bust-crust, I think: heavy, and stiff...

***SOLD

Another note on this topic- The term "kick" wax is a modern term- The use of "grip" waxing is much older By using grip wax as my base ( or in VERY cold conditions almost none at all) I do not need much "kick" wax on my low-cambered deep snow and/or steep terrain touring skis. I do use "kick" wax on...

one thing to add: I've found that if you are really "working" to ascend a "climb",
you can successfully achieve a steeper slope, than if just leisurely making your way up.
Maintaining a base-level of positive inertia, really goes a long way...

How is the solid wax to work with? How do you apply it? I literally just rub it on, and that's it - no corking. For me, the wax placed in this area is simply to prevent snow from sticking. The Fischer Crown base has all the "grip" I would ever need. No reason to try and enhance it with grip/kick wa...

wabene wrote: ↑

Thu Feb 13, 2025 6:05 am

Swix makes the F4 liquid glide wax probably very much like the Toko.

I use F4 Universal (solid, rubbed-on) in the pattern base area of the ski,
and Polar on the sintered tip/tail.

Fisher Traverse 78
Works well for me.

I think the only advantage of a "jig", is to determine the center of the ski *base*, and translate that mark to the top of the ski. (because you want to center a binding at the mid-line of the base, and *not* the top of the ski, because those two geometries aren't necessarily consistent with eachoth...