Pulled The Trigger on Tele Setup!

[Krummholz]

I’ll mount your skis if you fix my Winchester 94 that won’t feed to the chamber.

[Montana St Alum]

I've got a 3.6x9mm drill bit on order as well as a 12AB tap. I had been using a 9/64" drill bit (3.57mm) with some electrical tape and no tap at all. I never like self-tapping screws as they are not as structurally strong and always mushroom the hole at least a little. Ordered from Utah Ski Gear since they'll probably get here fastest. Had I known they had a SLC store front I'd have stopped by on the way home from FHL last Friday. I'll use Gorilla glue for sealing the hole. I've used the Titebond III and don't like it for this application. I'd prefer to use quiver killers but it voids the warranty so I'll use the provided screws this year and put in the quiver killers once the warranty expires.

Excellent, you'll love them for around here!

Also, take some time to practice putting those Meidjos on in your house a few times!

Are you using Meidjo? We can meet up somewhere. You can show me how to use them and I'll buy you a beer(s)!

Try to figure out how to weight the ball of your foot in the boots at home before you hit the slopes. This will also give you a chance to experiment with sock thickness and how tight you want them buckled and find out any potential hot spots.

I'm wearing them around to start the packing-out process. They're pretty tight right now but I'd rather have tight than loose. As far as weighting the ball of the foot, I guess I have to get the bellows to compress first! They are really stiff right now but not as stiff as the Crispi. I couldn't tell it had any flex at all! I'm glad I tried them, too, but now I have to send them back to Fey Bros.

Yeah, I use them, and they are a bit finicky, initially, but after a short period they're pretty straightforward to use. I ski at Deer Valley and some at Park City/Canyons, so if you're in the area, PM me!

[mca80]

I’ll mount your skis if you fix my Winchester 94 that won’t feed to the chamber.

What year?

[fisheater]

Congratulations on the new set up @JohnSKepler ! I hear there is a bit of break in time on the TX Pro.
It seems as though Meidjo has more popular support than Lynx, so it is probably a wise choice.
Did you get the BC version of the V6? I like my wax, but my 86 mm Tindan seems close to my waxing limit.
Good luck on breaking in those TX, and on figuring out how to clip into those Meidjo! I wish I had that terrain! Hopefully someday you can take them for a few spins on the Cirque Traverse, once you can ski mid-week. Probably 70 for me!

[TallGrass]

seems like you have a shop nearby that probably could mount the bindings properly with a jig. Why risk a F Up? When another $30-40 gets it done right.

I did my 3 pin because the shop that is 45 minutes away, that I used before, has changed owners and the place is a mess now, or drive 2 1\2 - 4 hours for another shop to do a mounting

I'm confident to do it right. I'm an anal-retentive engineer and a real pain in the ass to be around (just ask my wife). But who do people come to, to mount motorcycle tires, mount ski bindings, fix their guns, etc. ... And just because they are a "shop" doesn't mean they'll get it right. Overall, I'm happier with my own work than when I pay for it. At least then I can blame the idiot who screwed it up! I only pay when I can't do the job, like mounting car tires, structural concrete, marble sculptures of myself, welding - which I plan on learning...

I remember pressing a bushing out and new one in an A-arm on my car in high school, bent the vise handle in the process (cheater). So I called around and took it to a shop who called back saying the bushing was bad and I needed to get them another. I did, they installed, and I went to pick it up.

I asked what the "shop supplies" fee was for. He said for WD40 and cleaner. I pointed out I cleaned the arm prior, and asked why he needed WD40. "To make it slide in easier." In a WTF, I asked what they used to drive the old out and new in. "Air tools, the first one just fell apartin install," to which in further WTF I pointed out it's a press fit, no lube, press out old, in new, no air tools, and asked why they didn't use a press. "We don't have one."

"That explains all the nick marks all over it. So basically you tore up the bushing by using the wrong tools and expect me to pay for your foul up???" He grabbed it out of my hand and said "You either pay up or I'll take it in back and drive the bushing back out!!!"

I paid the $&#$head versus risking more damage.

At that point I had my motto:
Why pay someone more than I make an hour,
to do a the job worse than I would,
in more time than it would take me?

If I can buy the tool(s) for less than it costs to farm it out, I do it. Specialty machine work (I don't have a Bridgeport nor lathe, nor 20-ton press), sure. Otherwise, I'll teach myself.

That said, when I find a GOOD artiste who does a job the right way the first time, I happily pay. It can take a bit to find those you need in life: doctor, dentist, lawyer, and mechanic... when you can't do it yourself.

[JohnSKepler]

I remember pressing a bushing out and new one in an A-arm on my car in high school, bent the vise handle in the process (cheater). So I called around and took it to a shop who called back saying the bushing was bad and I needed to get them another. I did, they installed, and I went to pick it up.

^^^
This is gold my friend, solid GOLD. I fear for a nation where boys didn't have to do this kind of stuff growing up. My tutor was a '66 Mustang and I remember those A-arms all too well, and almost getting killed using spring

I asked what the "shop supplies" fee was for. He said for WD40 and cleaner. I pointed out I cleaned the arm prior, and asked why he needed WD40. "To make it slide in easier." In a WTF, I asked what they used to drive the old out and new in. "Air tools, the first one just fell apartin install," to which in further WTF I pointed out it's a press fit, no lube, press out old, in new, no air tools, and asked why they didn't use a press. "We don't have one."

"That explains all the nick marks all over it. So basically you tore up the bushing by using the wrong tools and expect me to pay for your foul up???" He grabbed it out of my hand and said "You either pay up or I'll take it in back and drive the bushing back out!!!"

I paid the $&#$head versus risking more damage.

At that point I had my motto:
Why pay someone more than I make an hour,
to do a the job worse than I would,
in more time than it would take me?

If I can buy the tool(s) for less than it costs to farm it out, I do it. Specialty machine work (I don't have a Bridgeport nor lathe, nor 20-ton press), sure. Otherwise, I'll teach myself.

That said, when I find a GOOD artiste who does a job the right way the first time, I happily pay. It can take a bit to find those you need in life: doctor, dentist, lawyer, and mechanic... when you can't do it yourself.

Yep. My dad always did stuff on the cheap and usually saved about 50%. Then he'd have to do it again at 100%. So the repair took twice as long and cost 50% more. Combine that with undoing the damage people who don't care caused, I learned the same lessons as you and came out with my own motto:

Fixing it right the first time costs less and takes less time than fixing it twice.

And after buying the tool I need for every job I do I have a pretty good repair shop!

But, I have to cut my dad some slack. His parents were honest-to-God depression people and knew what it was like to have nothing and have to rely on their own wits. I filtered out the cheap and kept the part about being self-reliant. He was a really smart guy, did well, and he never even finished high school but man could he be a pain in the @#%!

[TallGrass]

Fixing it right the first time costs less and takes less time than fixing it twice.
And after buying the tool I need for every job I do I have a pretty good repair shop!

But, I have to cut my dad some slack. His parents were honest-to-God depression people and knew what it was like to have nothing and have to rely on their own wits. I filtered out the cheap and kept the part about being self-reliant. He was a really smart guy, did well, and he never even finished high school but man could he be a pain in the @#%!

Granted I have a fair amount of Harboring Fright tools, but for that one time job they work, and usually for a 2-4th job. If it was my trade and personal tool, I'd buy better, though I've heard many a crew boss say they buy them for employees who drop, lose and generally don't take care of "company equipment" as the replacement cost is lower.

There is also stupid cheap, like losing more money-making time than it'd cost to farm-out the work. Spending an hour to fix a 25-cent part usually isn't worth it, unless you need to get it back in service pronto and stores are closed, or you just enjoy the "challenge." It is very, very rare I find someone else's "electrical repair" satisfactory as most are just electrical tape patch jobs or worse, whereas I seek to replicate a factory-finish -- seems how electron stuff works is voodoo to many. I also clean, remove corrosion, grease, paint, etc. so things come-apart easier the next time I'm in there, especially where aluminum+stainlessSteel or rust-prone steels are involved.

I have a friend who trues laced wheels who I'll happily pay, even though he's shown me how I can do it on my own (I will if I 'have' to like on a road trip).

ON topic...
That's why I'm happy with the tackle box deal I got for tuning (kick+glide waxes, scrapers, ptex, Swix iron, ...) and a HF screwdriver set with PZ3 for $7 as it lets me do most of the work. I'm only missing a drill bit, drill guide, and tap for doing holes, yet am holding off until I 'need' it. Also, the old klister I scraped off is in a little box compartment, and I wonder if that'd work for sealing old binding holes.

To the OP, hope it all comes together both in gear but also on the slopes, hills, and dales for ya!