[AZ2MT]

I "unmounted" my first pair of bindings this weekend, and found that the screws were glued in with the epoxy from hell. I got about half of them out with a #3 phillips, and knew I was close to stripping the others out, so I sought out a proper#3 Posi-drive screwdriver to get the best fit and torque application. Turns out the only Posi-drive screwdrivers anywhere in Bozeman were in a 130pc set of tools I didn't need. I finally broke down and took the skis to a ski shop-- they had to drill out a couple because they were so badly glued in. I noticed they used a regular #3 phillips-- they said Posi-drivers just cause them to strip out (even though they were Posi-drive screws). What do you folks use?
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May the spirits of the Ancients be with you

[Bruce H]

a #2 square drive on a cordless drill. The drivers cost pennies and can be found in any decent hardware store (some lines of construction screws use them). They work much better than any form of phillips driver.

Heating the screws sometimes can loosen the epoxy. Put a nail in your cordless and spin it in the screw head to heat it up from friction. Or put a soldering iron to it?

[uncle rico]

Ive mounted and unmounted many bindings over the years with a standard phillips head screwdriver. The key to removing screws installed with epoxy is to heat them up. Ive seen many screws stripped and or broken by attempting to remove them without heat. I use a drill bit installed in the drill backwards. Just place the bit into the top of the screw, apply some pressure and spin it for 10 seconds or so.......Just my two cents
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Bet I could throw a football over them mountains.

[tele.skier]

A soldering iron to the heads of screws and a square tip (as was mentioned) work the best for removal of epoxied screws. I would remove the screws with an impact type driver, but I wouldn't install screws with one. Installation of screws, I would use epoxy and tighten with a clutch style driver starting at the lowest setting and hand tighten the final turns.
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the fall line is your friend.... resistance is futile

[gregL]

Use a # 3 Posi-drive, it's the right tool for the job. If you're desperate, a # 3 Phillips with the tip filed down will work, but once you've purchased the Posi-drive, it will be a moot issue.

For epoxied screws, I press the screwdriver VERY firmly into the screw, then heat the shaft of the screwdriver with a heat gun on high for about five minutes. The screws will come out no problem.

[ed]

A posi-drive bit has always worked very well for me. I don't think I have ever stripped or even slipped in the head of a screw with a posi-drive bit. But with epoxy you will sometimes need heat even with a posidrive bit.

I suggest you buy some online. You'll pay $7-$8 shipping for $5 worth of parts, but it will be cheaper than the 130 piece set.

Look at page 2681 of the McMaster Carr Catalog: $.56 - $1 each

http://www.mcmaster.com/

I have a hand driver like this which I have loved for a very long time:
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=200321983&R=200321983

[homemadesalsa]

Hey those are my new-to-me Karmas that he is talking about! Thanks for taking them to the shop, but the guys are right- just a bit of heat won't melt that plastic insert.

Hope you had a safe drive home!

The Karmas are probably already mounted up and waiting for me at Peaked.

best
lw

[genuflector]

Recently backed out some epoxied screws by heating with soldering iron for 90 sec each screw then using Phillips scew Driver by hand
Two screws were a bit recalcitrant (I partially stripped the tops of them) and required my wife to put body weight on the driver while I gained torque by using a shifter on the screwdriver handle.

I compared the backwards drill bit method to the Soldering Iron and the soldering iron was far more effective.

[Fixed Gear Head]

If you look at one of the dewalt bits out there it really is a #3 posi. Its available at most home store and true value where I bought mine. Just ask for the phillips and if you read the side its acutally a posi #3
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Board Certified GOMER fixer

[JohanP]

Put a 3mm drill bit in your electric drill and run it in reverse in the screw head for a while to heat the screw up.

That will soften the epoxy bond.

Insert a Poxzidrive screwdriver if its a Pozidrive scew, otherwise you will strip the screw head.
Preferably use a screw driver model with a a spanner grip.
Load the screw driver downwards with body weight and use a spanner on the grip to torque the screw loose.

Works like a charm.

Some people use hot water, others a soldering iron. Havent tried those. But heat is part of the answer.

[bmiller]

Proper screwing technique is most important
After choosing the proper tool, phillips or posi whatever, heating the screw, place the palm of your right hand on top of the driver, get on it use your body weight to bear down make sure you're above the ski, put your left hand around front on the driver, use your whole body to bear down and turn at once. That'll break those little bastards loose.

[no eye ronnie]

Pozi-Drive is just a square-truncated Phillips pattern.

If you are good with a grinder, you can grind a similar No. 3 Phillips in a squarely truncated manner to yield a very very workable Pozi-Drive.

But I don't suggest it if you're not good with the grinder!

[knut Straud]

This topic comes up periodically. Even bmiller's technique doesn't always work. Here's the answer I've offered previously:

I once had a buggered screw head that refused to budge. It had been set with Gorilla glue not epoxy. Crescent wrench on a square shaft screwdriver and all my weight pressing down on the handle of said screwdriver and it would still cam out and yes it was the right style and size tip. Then I remembered a recent tool acquisition (yes I'm a tool junky) a cordless impact wrench. It's the same concept as the impact wrench the tire shop uses to put on your wheels so tight that you can't remove them when you're miles from anywhere with a flat tire... but I digress. Anyway, using my new impact wrench, that buggered screw backed out slicker than a whistle. Unfortunately this type of tool isn't very common but if you know a carpenter or metal roofing specialist you may be able to borrow one, and I promise you that screw will come out.

[jcpoczatek]

Any body use a mechanical impact wrench? The kind you hit with a hammer? They're pretty cheap, and I've been thinking about picking one up.

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00947641000?rgn=0,0,640,640&scl=2.56&fmt=jpeg

Or

http://s7.sears.com/is/image/Sears/00990131000?rgn=0,0,1200,1200&scl=4.8&fmt=jpeg

???
Why didn't that work? Link works...

[tele.skier]