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Re-mounting into existing drill holes

 
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krisanddori



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 12
Location: Carbondale, CO

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 4:05 pm    Post subject: Re-mounting into existing drill holes Reply with quote

I bought a pair of used k2 world piste and from the looks of the drill/mounting pattern they look to have been previously mounted with g3's. I have a pair of g3's and wondered if I would be crazy to simply re-use the existing drill holes. Or should I take it to the local shop and have them fill the holes and re-mount a few millimeters offset from them. If I were to re-use, what would be the best way to do it? Use some loc-tite, epoxy ??? Re-using would save me some time and $, but it may come back to bite me in the end, right? Feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

KJ
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ian



Joined: 08 Dec 2004
Posts: 99
Location: CO

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Posting a few millimetres from the original hole is not a good idea. You need at least a centimetre. I would see how it goes with the original holes and a whole lot of wood glue. You could try also taking the skis to a shop and have them put some inserts into the original holes also. This is what Iwould do if I was not confident with the existing holes,apart from remounting the skis foward.
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Eric O



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 5333
Location: Tahoe City

PostPosted: Wed Dec 08, 2004 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Remounting into the original holes is fine if the holes are not significantly damaged. A good filler material should be used. There is no need to go as far as epoxy if the holes aren't damage. It's enough to fill the holes with a mix of wood glue and (take your pick: fiberglass, steel wool, sawdust) and screw right into them. In most cases, again if there's no real damage to the holes and topsheet, it's enough to just fill the holes with glue and screw the binding right in, with no extra filler materials.

Another option is to drive standard plastic ski plugs into the holes, with glue, then set up the jig and drill the holes out again (very carefully). This typically leaves just enough plastic in the holes to snug up the screws nicely. It's also less messy than mixing stuff into your glue.

Some people just stuff matchsticks in the holes with glue, trim them flush to the topsheet, then screw the binding in.
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krisanddori



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 12
Location: Carbondale, CO

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 3:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the suggestions. I looked at the holes last night and they look to be in fine shape. I think I will just go with a liberal amount of wood glue. just to confirm, that is put the wood glue in with the screws, not put wood glue in, let it dry, and then mount, correct? any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again.

KJ
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XXX_er



Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Posts: 7402
Location: Northwest B.C.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 4:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used old screw holes ,it should work fine if the screw holes are not stripped.I f you wan to use white wood glue put the glue in the hole and tighten the screws down.mostly wood glue is gona waterproof the hole IMO.

usually I use urethane glue ,you get the hole wet ,put the glue in and watch it all bubble up to fill all the space in the hole

if some are stripped out I fix em with chopped up fibreglass strands and slow set epoxy.I put the glass strands & epoxy in the hole and run the screws in without OVER-tightening them,let the epoxy dry for a day then I run the screws out so I know I will be able to ge tthe screws out when I want .Run the screws in and crank em down tight as you want ... if they don't strip-out you are good to go
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Randy



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 3804
Location: The Death Star

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 6:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

krisanddori wrote:
thanks for the suggestions. I looked at the holes last night and they look to be in fine shape. I think I will just go with a liberal amount of wood glue. just to confirm, that is put the wood glue in with the screws, not put wood glue in, let it dry, and then mount, correct? any other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks again.

KJ


Correct, squirt some wood glue (yellow colored) into each hole, use tooth pick to work it around so the entire inside of the holesa are covered and then mount and let cure in a warm dry place for 24 hours.

FWIW: I use the following method for determining if the screw holes are "stripped", without out putting in any glue -- mount the binding -- if the screws will screw down tight -- they are good -- if the screw gets to the bottom of the hole and spins in the hole without undue effort -- it's stripped. For stripped holes I use J.B.Weld instead of wood glue to fill the hole and glue the screw in one operation. J.B.Weld is availble at most auto supply stores.

Also be sure to use a #3 POSI-DRIVE screwdriver -- otherwise you'll mess up the screw heads.
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cowdog



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 2685
Location: Gravity's grip

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree with much of the above. I have reused mounting holes either 1) not doing anything special or 2) filling the holes with a mix of wood glue and sawdust/misc. and then redrilling (after 24 hours).

I've never had a problem. BTW, I always use slow cure, expanding epoxy for all mounts.
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XXX_er



Joined: 07 Dec 2004
Posts: 7402
Location: Northwest B.C.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

can you get a screw out of JB weld or is it all permanently welded together?

I like to undo screws a turn after the epoxy is set and retighten ,the threads you made from 12hr or even slow set epoxy & fibreglass will still be good but you KNOW you can take the binding off

somebody on this board told me he oils the screw threads lightly so the epoxy doesnt stick to the screw
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Randy



Joined: 06 Dec 2004
Posts: 3804
Location: The Death Star

PostPosted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 7:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have had good luck unscrewing screws glued in with J.B.Weld. I've never had to use heat to lossen the screws. My method is:

1) clamp a pair of vice grips on the shaft of the my #3 POSI-DRIVE screwdriver.
2) Engage the screwdriver in the screw.
3) Wack the head of the screwdriver several times with a wooden mallet (a piece of 2x4 will do)
4) Press down on the screwdriver handle with my right (good) hand to with about half my body weight (e.g. 120lbs)
5) Pull on the vice grips to untwist the screwdriver.
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