FWIW: I created a table for myself to figure out what percentage of the ski running length of where the manufacturers put the boot center mark. This is only with where I was happy with the boot center marks were put. It came to something around 45% of the ski, measured from the rear of the ski where it contacts the snow.
and how does this correlate with the manufacturer's boot center mark for various makes and models?
It's based on a average of two manufacturers where I liked the mount. I just used the skis I had on hand:
K2 Coomba 174: RL=153.5, BC Mark@ 70.5. BC/RL Ratio = 45.9%
Head Monster im82 174: RL = 149, BC Mark @ 66.3. BC/RL Ratio = 44.5%
45% is a very rough average of the two. 45.2% is what I actually used. I suppose you can go through figuring out how to mount it relative to the chord center/pin lines - that would be more accurate to what Rossi put with their markings but I like how my planks ski vs their running lengths. I'm pretty happy with the point I have them on the BC125s. I have NTN mounted on them, and have never used a different detent other than the middle ones. _________________ Drive the cuff
Last edited by hdiddy on Mon Nov 07, 2011 8:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: 30 Dec 2004 Posts: 1646 Location: New Paltz
Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 7:59 pm Post subject:
James wrote:
hdiddy wrote:
the harder part is to find the vertical centerline along the axis of the ski.
Any tips on the best way to do this.
As a designer model maker I have a few pairs of dial or digital calipers capable of measuring down to .001". I measure the width of the ski, not at the top sheet, but at the base of the edge, about 6" in front of the toe of the binding and 6" behind the heel. Place the ski on a flat surface and put a machinist square on the flat surface and along the edge of the ski at the same point that you measured the width. Divide that measurement in half and measure in from the side of the square that runs along the ski, scribe or mark a line, do the same from the other side to check, both should be in the same place at the center of the ski. After the center point is determined both in front of and behind the binding, draw or scribe a line between those 2 points and you now have an accurate center line of the ski between the 2 edges.
You could do the same thing with just the square and an accurate ruler but it obviously wouldn't be as accurate.
What's your boot size and where did its BC mark end up compared to the balance point mark on the ski (175 cm, I assume) ?
Thanks for helping, by the way
My boot size is 27.0, but since I'm measuring for the boot center mark on the ski, it shouldn't really "matter".
I dunno about the balance point mark - will have to measure it once I get home.
EDIT: To my knowledge, there's one other ttipper who virtually did the same thing I did to mount his BC125 and I think he was satisfied with the result as well. _________________ Drive the cuff
Joined: 01 Feb 2010 Posts: 160 Location: Penacook, NH
Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:17 pm Post subject:
James wrote:
hdiddy wrote:
the harder part is to find the vertical centerline along the axis of the ski.
Any tips on the best way to do this.
Take some paper and run it lengthwise along the ski; fold the edges of the paper over each sides of the ski making a good crease where the sides begin. Remove the paper from the ski; you now have a U shape piece of paper. Then using the two creases as reference points, fold in half. You now have a center line. Place back on the ski, and mark each end of the paper on the ski. With a ruler, draw your center line.
Or....slap this together with scraps & a drywall screw, and run the block along each side of the ski in the areas mentioned above. Gives two sharp scribed lines that are the SAME EXACT distance from each edge. Midpoint easily determined with decent ruler is the CL. (never could get that origami to feel right.) That said, the more I do this the more I feel I'm just as good eyeballing and feeling the shim into the middle. What with inevitable punch and drill drift, final mount is never as precise as the measure.
So why so many posts that look like the potential end user is going to ski these on hard snow, put axls on them, ski in T2's, etc...? Seems that it both quantitatively and qualitatively negates the intent of an XCD ski. Why not just 3pins, a small boot, and save the power for the 'big' teley rig? 'course then there'd be that re-learning curve thingy. Embrace it. Go small or go home.
Umm... cuz we want laps on big tackle without the annoyance of skins. We wanna scootch quickly over to the next bowl, hit it and get some more. Opens up more sidecountry as well as some meadowskipping.
And because we can.
Other than the drag from the bases, the 125 skis like any DH oriented ski IMO.
If I wanted 3 pins, I'd be bringing out the Rebounds & leathers for covering distance - not for turns. _________________ Drive the cuff
OK... another side country ski set up. So XCD will also evolve just like teley. Maybe Rossi will do some scales on the S7's and call them something like "not as good up or down, but another ski for your rack 7's next year they'll have 3 sheets of metal to amp the burl and stokage!" There. That about takes care of all the space on the top sheet. :)
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 17779 Location: EL/R -6.12, SL/A -8.15 in NW VT and slightly south of the Poutine Curtain
Posted: Tue Nov 08, 2011 7:03 pm Post subject:
mark wrote:
OK... another side country ski set up. So XCD will also evolve just like teley. Maybe Rossi will do some scales on the S7's and call them something like "not as good up or down, but another ski for your rack 7's next year they'll have 3 sheets of metal to amp the burl and stokage!" There. That about takes care of all the space on the top sheet.
Ok, who put cheerios in your bowl of piss this morning??? _________________
OK... another side country ski set up. So XCD will also evolve just like teley. Maybe Rossi will do some scales on the S7's and call them something like "not as good up or down, but another ski for your rack 7's next year they'll have 3 sheets of metal to amp the burl and stokage!" There. That about takes care of all the space on the top sheet.
What you got against fat ..things? It's a new standard: Xcd Fat..
But seriously, Excursions and Xterrains can take u all 'round the mountain in some pretty varied conditions..Just don't let the drag on low angles get too to-you ..
rsire, just goofing on the notion that as soon new XCD gear starts making the rounds, we're already dissatisfied with it's lack of power and are planning on how best to pump and pimp it up n out of proportion when there's already a plethora of gear that's all full of power and burliness and and and.... stuff. XCD isn't supposed to be heavy teley. Just thought the whole thing was pretty funny.
Joined: 21 Sep 2007 Posts: 17779 Location: EL/R -6.12, SL/A -8.15 in NW VT and slightly south of the Poutine Curtain
Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 1:27 pm Post subject:
Trad XCD (Norpine) and XCD Phat serve two different niches. I don't see Norpine going away. XCD Phat serves a definite need that isn't always addressed by Norpine. Face it, its fun to yo-yo short steep shots on burly gear. And who wants to deal with skins for <500' of vert? I am sure some people don't mind. But if someone makes a beefier "XCD" ski and it sells, why begrudge them that? Sure, it isn't "XCD" any more, but its fun. Like my kids used to say when they were little: Again! Again! Sure, you can do it on light gear. It requires more technique and skillz. Or you can do it on the weight of gear that fits your skill level. And then there's the long relatively flat stretches on long tours that have steep terrain in between. Why deal with the slower glide of skins or have to carry a 'climbing thong' in addition to your skins? Wide and burly XCD skis have their pros and cons. And each one does a different job. Heck, Baaahb has been putting pattern on his tele skis for a while now. People want it. Don't begrudge them that. And yes, it is funny to think of heavy light tele skis. _________________
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^^ second the paper method. And if you have artistic gifts, you can fold a paper-tele skier when you are done.
